Christmas - near Eastern style

We wish you a Merry Christmas - and a Happy New Year.

Being a former British Colony - it seems as though many Yemeni locals are familiar with the Western winter holidays - but a little confused. Today, December 29th, our last day before the weekend, one student said to me, "have a happy christmas." Happy Christmas? Yes that's right. Understandably - many people here mesh the two holidays as one in the same- after all they are only a week apart...and basically you celebrate in the same way......or so it turns out. This is Christmas - Yemen style!

Let me walk you through our adventure which took place on the actual 25th of December.

First, work - from 12-8pm...we wish a few people merry christmas, and they respond with a scrunched face in confusion, 'isn't that next week?'...
Second - 10pm We invite some neighbors over for snacks and homemade christmas cookies (well acutally a far cry from real christmas cookies...but it makes the story a little better). Perplexed some say, 'wasn't that yesterday?' and others, 'Great, Happy New Year to you!'
Our friends bring food, candies, and a whole lot of fun. After eating, we sat around wondering what is the perfect Christmas activity...cards of course! (2am) We play some spoons, have a lot of laughs, and then...

Its time for the countdown. Hamoody - brings in a huge confetti bomb - so fittingly we start a countdown in chorus...10....3....2...1... Merry Chirstams - the bomb explodes and glitter fights proceed for the next 30 mins. Is it the new year?

Finally, (4am) we finish off the night with the best way to spread Christmas cheer, singing loud for all to hear...well not quite, but we do get knock at the door from security with a noise complaint (oops)...

So we turn on the most appropriate Christmas movie for the occassion. Elf.

We give thanks for our friends and community here as we organize the chaos of dishes, food, and furniture - and promptly sleep. For the next day at work was to come early.

a NEW day on the OLD chopping block

Sometimes it seems - nothing goes according to plan. And thus I reluctantly transform.

Minaret

As I sit up, suddenly awoken by the loud friday sermon blaring into our window- from the speakers on the minaret, I remember why I am so thankful to be here. We are alive, well, and relishing in Gods graces.

This past month we have been busy with life- the good things, and the hard things. Kyle got sick with Malaria, and was out of it for a while. He spent time resting, intraveinously rehydrating and pumping the meds and Today- he is 100percent himself. Alhamduliah.

Above are some pictures of an isolated beach Kyle and I went to with some friends. A Paradise of sorts. We hopped on a boat and got dropped off along the coast....it was beautiful, but the water to our surprise was full of sea urchins. After running exitedly into the deep blue -- we were limping with sharp pains in the bottoms of our feet... yikes. Al shok - our friend 'fetu' said.... Needless to say, we were out of there with bleeding soles.

Do you see the blow fish? One of many treasures Kyle was able to find. Walking along the rocky coast, Kyle said, "Lisa come here -look at this!" He beckoned me to come see a jellyfish trapped by/under a rock in the ocean. He had a prodding stick and gently poked the reddish pink inflated blob. Hard to see because of the reflection of the light on the water, I was unsure that it was actually a fish - further investigation was needed. I asked Kyle to free it from the rock... He did, and out came his discovery - a plastic bag full of aging water, it popped to the surface to thank Kyle for its freedom im sure.

We stayed in the shelter briefly for protection from the hot sun. But not long enough. See it is winter time, the weather is incredibly pleasant, and locals say it is colder than they have ever known it to be. Our skin was warm by the sun, but not hot - well, we found the next day the power of UV, with bright red necks, and noses.

Next Kyle found a miss matched pair of shoes in the rocks. To our delight this was the key to getting back in the warm water - our feet were safe. Thank you Kyle.

On a different beach, an hour or so later, we swam, and built sand animals. It sure is good to be young and outside on our day off. I attempted an elephant... I will spare everyone of the picture as it looked more like an anteater... 'Fetu' made a bear - which was perfect because she looks just like a teddy in real life. I wish I could post a picture for you all, but for privacy reasons - you will be left to your imaginations.

Some of you have asked how I dress. At the beach and to swim, I wear long pants and shirt. The slender black figures are, women in their abayas. They are always worn in public places, even for swimming.

Last night I was walking with a group of friends, all girls, fully clothed and shapeless in the abaya of coarse and most were veiled, the eyes being the only part exposed. I was in my typical big balck pants and long, long sleeve shirt and scarf over my head. Unfortunately we got a lot of stares, as that is inevitable when you are with a foreigner - at one point we overheard a Yemeni man talking to his friend. "Yemeni women are so much more beautiful than foreign women."

That was really nice to hear. A releif and an incredible compliment to the reason behind a beautiful culture so different from the one I know. This was nice to hear for many reasons, but it did cause me to wonder. "How do you know?" One day they may really get their opportunity to see the beautiful women here.

We have been soaking up all that is around us with so much joy and pleasure. The annual Gulf Country futball tournament was hosted by Yemen this year - and it was located in ADEN! The hubub was incredible - with a week of celebrating the daily matches - big screens posted up along the main roads where you would see crowds gather around to watch the games. Lots of visitors from other countries filled the roads, and restaurants, security was everywhere. Kyle got the opportunity to go with a freind to the staidum to watch the final match between Saudi and Kuwait.

Most Yemenis were routing for the underdog Kuwait, in the blue - and with a 1- 0 score in overtime - Kuwait won!

Now its back to the regular swing of things for us. Thanks for your questions and comments.

Peace to all.

Sira Fortress - Crater

Kyle and I took a quick bus ride into another part of town, and went to visit Sira Fortress. A bunkar established long ago. Built at the height of the volcanic rock looking over the sea, protecting the city.

A view of Aden from the top. Its fishing season, Kyle and I joined a new found friend for fresh fish, flat bread, and chutney near the water on our way home.

We are still enamored with this wonderous world.

Catwoman n Captain other side of the planet

Sunset in Aden

So we are here, and finally connected. Kyle and I have been in Yemen for a month now, and we are loving it in so many ways.



For an overview: Kyle and I were in Sana'a for a couple of days where we slowly accustomed ourselves to the crowded streets, gingerbread houses, and passersby with mouthfulls of qat. It was beautiful and majestic in its own way. You could immediatly see the progress and the presenceo of the government - new buildings, street beautification, hospitals galore.

Sana'a old town

At the same time we were surrounded by the fantasy of our first arabian nights- with spice sellers, bargain buyers, and women's eyes peering out behind the veil. Beautiful stained glass windows in the shape of the half moon lined the walls of every home. I don't know if this is to keep wandering eyes out, or to let radiant light in, or both. We would wake up to blues, red, and yellows dancing accross our faces.

glass maker/ window from our bedroom in Sana'a

Surreal. Sana'a is in the mountiains, 7200 feet above sea level, cold at night, warm during the day - cool at night. A few days later ,we flew to Adne. We arrived within an hour. We were greeted and chauffered to our apartment, in the busy neighboorhood of Al Ma'ala. I guess it is a happening part of town; internet cafes, restuarants, bridal boutiques, and ceremony halls. We are on the top floor of a new apartment building tucked away behind the old soviet style skyrises which line both sides of the main street. The entrance is a grand archway, with a guard who sits behind a desk and smies at us with a mouth full of green qat leaves that line his teeth and gums as he smiles when we walk by. We ascent 5 flights of uneven stairs, all the way to the top. We are in a large apartment with three bedrooms. Kyle and I chose the rooms with a balcony that overlooks the Arabian Sea; fishing boats, oil riggers, and cargo ships line this old port. It is heavenly to sit out in the evening and look at the stars as there is not too much light to pollute the sky. It is hot here - but it is winter time, so the temperatures are bearable during the night, and there is typically a cool breeze which dries the remaining sweat from the day as I sit outside. Volcanic rock forms mountains all around us, they sit all around the coast as if God was making a mud pie, and left drips of earth everywhere, even statuesque pires that sit in the middle of the sea.

Like I said, Aden is Hot, and especially under all these clothes. This morning as I was putting on my basically black unitard, getting ready for work, Kyle said, "hey catwoman." He often comments on how swealtering it must be under all these clothes. See I don't wear the black dress that all Yemeni women wear - but I wear a black suit - just to keep my arms and legs covered, and then I wear my clothes on top, I try my best to hide my shape and cover my head. This helps with the looks that Kyle may receive from walking with a potentially immodest woman. When we walk throug the streets Kyle greets everyone - this is my favorite to watch men resting in the street turn a skeptical glare into a smile and salute... as if he were some important captain.

So there you have us thus far - although it can be hard to be away from home, we love it here.

Sept 19th 2010

Aden, Yemen

Kyle and I will be flying to Sana'a. We arrive Tuesday the 21st of september for an employee orientation before we move on to Aden where we will be living.

Moving on....

Now it begins. I will refresh this blog by posting on this site, along with Kyle, to recount our adventures and stories of all the things we didn't know about Yemen.

sincerely yours,